Because That’s where Over Egaggeration of panelines and weathering belong…FYI…. There … Eh. matter…We Are Artists that produce a plane or helicopter that flew in the Past or Present…The Models Be careful the panel line of C model is different from B and J model. Too each his own. It’s that Easy! I was never happy with the look it gave, so I dodged away from it pretty quickly (or tended to go a step too far and cover it up! I don’t feel like I’ve had a point yet where I’ve overdone it…but if I did I imagine the process could be done in reverse (small random black “marbling”, then add a blend coat). That’s where the patchwork comes in (IMO). Also, while I prefer priming with black, which is the same as pre-shading, I never suggest it for beginners since this can be difficult to paint over. Personally, these days I only use sweeping sprays for clear coats or something like dust effects on tank side skirts. I would be interest to see how you would adapt your black basing technique to bare metal finishes. Weathering uniformity is another aspect of the problem (perhaps especially on ships): great flat expanses are left bright shiny & new, while the engine & exhaust areas are black with soot and oil. They do look sharp, I'd like to do that Canadian demo bird from years back. And biplanes without rigging. I got dragged kicking and screaming into pre-shading, then as an artist liked it (but absolutely not the “Spanish Style” which looks like a cartoon) and have always used the artistic rule of “less is more”. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. The Signal Square, or signal area, contained symbols to indicate visually to over-flying aircraft conditions on the aerodrome. Like shiny NMF on operational aircraft or improper dull or flat coats. Clearly it’s not stark black lines, but if the light is right the panel lines are very visible. The panel shading only really pulled through on the Intermediate Blue fuselage sides. And it’s glorious! Your example of a filthy dirty EF-18 is an extreme. In short, my issue with all the panel shading nonsense is that it only pays attention to a specific feature of the aircraft’s surface, at the expense of the rest. I get much better results using variations of basic colours (by add a few drops of lighter or darker colour) and creative use of artists oils. With my experience in Proto:87 modeling, I returned to LSP and was amazed at the leveling of modeling skill I saw. Included are ten camera definitions, showing external, cockpit and cabin views. 2) Be respectful; each modelers has his right to his own ideas and likes and we are not anyone to demerit anyone’s work…scale modeling is an art with different perspectives, not a science of the right and wrong. If you’re getting upset reading this and want to get all defensive and butthurt about it, that’s okay. I can easily believe that many modelers want that look exactly. People fallow this trend because it’s easier to just watch some online tutorials and learn “the only right method” instead of discovering your own way by practicing. Art Murray points out that kits scribe differentlydue to the inconsistencies of the plastics used in kits. IMO both methods can yield great results if done well. Note: I feel I should restate it here: if you’re going after a stylized representation, then by all means go to town. I was a Crew Chief in the USAF at one time in my life and I think you’re understanding shading and weathering of aircraft better than most. Wish I could help you more, Marc…my MO with raised line kits is to not build them…but I would focus more on variation in the paintwork itself, working in layers that way. is first looked at for Uniformity, If you OVER Weather it….To you it looks great! If you are building for a particular audience then you have to build to their liking.The battle between paying the bills and doing it how we wish is the heartache of every artist be they a painter, photographer, or even a modeller. Bellow is the link to work in progress: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235064483-revell-148-p-61-black-widow-midnight-mickey/. Yeah there’s some weathering that aligns with panel lines, but a lot of times, it’s a more random variation than that. Not everything has to be black or dark brown. Aircraft are over weathered just as everyone has commented on. Just look at the “house style”  Hasegawa uses to show off their new kits. Some very good advice! If you’re working on a very dark aircraft… black, blue, etc., try using a shade of gray to highlight panel lines, something that is lighter than the aircraft color. Isn’t black-basing actually harder than pre-shading? BLACK!!!!????? So I gave “black and white shading” a try on a 1/72 Sherman earlier this year and it came out a total mess. The model may be an Stellar piece. Highlighting Panel Lines - One Modelers Approach By Pat Donahue Years ago with models done mostly with raised panel lines, a few intrepid modelers would run a wash over the raised panel line or lightly run a pencil over them to break up the outline of the model and try to do away with the toy-diecast look. For beginners looking to take theirs to the next level, the easiest way to improve the look of your kit is with panel lining. Any aircraft leaving the factory in primer, will go straight to paint and have no visible “panel lines” showing. On to some others. Change ). ( Log Out /  RF-101B Voodoo a couple years ago that I did in an all-black, suedo-Blackbird look. Clearcoat Decals Clearcoat weathering Flat Coat… Yes I Pre Shade going the other way to the lighter side. Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. Overall – and it’s something I’m still very much trying to work on myself – I think the key is in varying the entire surface of the aircraft. While I have yet to even try pre/post shading on a build, I can see who the uniformity of it make a build unrealistic. To shade or not to shade, that is the question. His artistic license as well as many of his “groupies” are over the top. contest and enter your model….Be Prepared!!! At the end of the day any technique can be overdone. The paint itself gets battered and dirty. For me, i can read again and again this article because is “so satisfying” know out there are modellers who think as same manner of you. In every case, objectives of using of composite material have been to reduce weight of planes and to have highly performing flying machines. And that is in no way my intent. BLACK!!!!!????? Browse the Contents of Features and Galleries between 1998 and 2007 Click the Links below to view lists of more than 4,000 Feature Articles and Galleries posted on … I reverted to traditional paint brushes and also spend a great deal more time looking at how the weathering on the real things manifests itself and noticed that a lot of the panel junctions on real aircraft are not sharply defined by accumulated gunk in them, but often subtly indicated by a slight colour shift in their vicinity, such as touch up paint or spot cleaning might give. After preshading the whole model apply a coat of future. Additionally, the […] Thanks. Its a Tamiya 1/35th Gama Goat Ambulance….not exactly the best vehicle to try the technique on either. I’ve seen a technique in which you sand down the top color to show the base color underneath (usually the primer and or the bare metal) Would this not lend itself to same issues as pre/post shading? And if you look at actual aircraft, that’s often exactly what you want. And boy does he reap the the coin for his products, especially all of his washes, filters, books and the like. Weathering. Weathering Aircraft with Geoff Coughlin There are many ways that you can highlight the panel lines on aircraft and we are steadily getting through as many of them as we can in your SMN Techniques Bank! Combined with various weathering techniques, it gave me a wonderful surface finish where the rivets and panel lines were subtly called out, but not overpowering. Since there as been some confusion since I first posted this, let me elaborate on a few things. Have not painted any model kits for a few years and want to return to the hobby. I have used the black basing technique on a 1/48 Typhoon as a first-up trial, pleased with the subtle final effect and will certainly use it again. Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Thanks Alan! I love your work, and your philosophies about painting/shading models. My main point is this – if you took a real plane, and shrank it down to 1/32 scale – it would look terrible. But a move up in scale will demand a lot more when it comes to the paintworks and black primer will save a lot of time compared to going crazy with preshading on a larger scale. The panel lines were very slightly darker, but nowhere near as contrasty as black-and-gray. Black basing, pre-shading, post-shading, it’s all so much unrealistic bullshit. When I black base, I’m typically working with very thin paint on top of it. And with Black Basing, you can still get that To me the key here is subtlety. I have witnessed multi hues of panels . Again, this is just not how actual aircraft weather. Great information. This is all art. Definitely something to keep in mind when you are building. The panel lines of the engine cowl are perfect straight lines looking from the front. Let me say For Armor and Military vehicles……PRE SHADE AND WEATHER YOUR BRAINS OUT! Before you start you need to decide whether you are going Since I read your post on the above subject of pre-shading I would like to share with you (and ask for opinion) a method which came to my mind recently and which I first used on a recently finished A6M2 (on the exterior only). Just a Liitle note on the p47 that won the nationals … that model did NOT won the best of the show on Model Fiesta, The winner was a Ferrari transporter. It’s never just the panel lines. A 1/16 inch gap in panels on a full size aircraft shows an obvious shadow that can be seen in a photograph no matter how small you make that photograph (within reason). Sometimes a slightly darker gray, or a green-brown that matches well with Olive Drab make more sense. But, it is a brilliant business model….I have to give him that much credit for sure. I like this site. Steve O. Reno http://www.themodellingnews.com/2015/09/takom-whippet-mka-build-pt-iii-painting.html. I have a picture of a Thunderbirds F-16 from the top and I was amazed at how stark every single panel line was. I think a lot of people would like to see it. This Su-25 was beautiful…until you see those panel lines, and then you can’t unsee them. But this is not limited to pre of post shading. I appreciate the common sense approach which I find lacking in this hobby at times. But to my eyes if not the judges, the panel shading on the cowl panels and inside the ammo bay doors is just way too pristine. I have pre-shaded, post-shaded, black based, and even multi-color based kits. Plenty of visible panel lines, but they’re all fairly subtle, and there’s a lot else happening on the surface. I attended the model fiesta for the first time this year and i had a blast. On large models there are a lot of panel lines and each one needs to be done individually. RF-101B Voodoo a couple years ago that I did in an all-black, suedo-Blackbird look. I am only showing them to illustrate this technique/style of shading panel lines. I mean, I get it. Great conversation for us. Subsequent weathering really saved this one, but this interim step is what really pushed me away from panel shading. IMO too much attention gets paid to the panel lines, and not enough to the subtle (and sometimes not so subtle) variations going on across the entire surface. The panels on even well-used aircraft, when seen at scale distance, are almost imperceptible unless the light is just right. To tell the truth, though, I feel that way about most light-modulated armor builds I see. Just curious. For any kit worth its salt, shading all those panel lines is an exercise in concentration and swearing. The Instrument Panel automatically updates and reacts to software events, giving you accurate, real-time access to important flight and aircraft information. I do have to say Tamiya does it better than Hasegawa in my opinion. ( Log Out /  So this is the post where I get to shit all over other people’s builds! Now, I hate to speak ill of others’ work. Add another layer of … There is No right or wrong in modeling….Just Alot of Opinions.. Hi, I just started following you after seeing some of your work and thoughts about the hobby in general. One of the many great things about Gunpla is that the more you obsess over the details, the more amazing your kit becomes. Manufacturers use some system of station marking. As ever Doogs, lovely work. I will attempt priming in black now. Not a fan of sanding, either, since to me it gets too stark too quickly. The diagonal station of the intake seems Please, someone, show me a photograph taken at 1:48 or 1:32 scale distance and show me plainly perceptible “panel lines” on any aircraft that’s not dirty. I’m a recovering model airplane judge..Your model For those unsure about black undercoating, many miniature painters use black undercoat exclusively. all that pre-shading just disappeared. Verisimilitude – “lifelikeness”, the appearance of being real. With it, you control shading as you paint, and can introduce it into the overall surface of the aircraft. To each his own. And the surfaces of the aircraft itself are filthy, especially around the wingroots. I was a contest judge for 7 years within my local IPMS chapter (I no longer am a member because of job constraints). UPDATE: Before showing others’ builds, I figure it’s only fitting to show my own attempts at panel shading. I would actually argue that most aircraft are not “overweathered” but improperly weathered. Ok Pre Shading…WHO Invented or is Responsible for the technique? Thanks and keep up the great work! I don’t have patience or time and I’m certainly not anal enough to worry that the rudder is too large for scale. That same gap on a model would disappear if scaled correctly (which would look stupid and toy like) so panel lines are added. Those people have an audience to appease. Contrasty, yet not exaggerated. As painters, we’re creating art and it’s important to break out of what is commonplace – but we also find plenty of situations where we have to paint unrealistic to create something pleasing to the eyes.I think if we ignore all the little details, then it looks like we’re lazy and missed stuff. The paint, decals,contruction first class! The model on the left below has been pre-shaded. There are a lot of other techniques that carry that risk. As nice as the rest of the work may be, it’s a distracting and ultimately detracting element. But I’ve more or less decided to leave 1:72 as my major scale and step up to 1:48 and even 1:32. Here’s why. FS numbers are shown in the attached table. Yes, the panel lines on some aircraft certainly do get filthy. Sorry, I digress. They all have there merits and they can all be done to a varying degree of success. Installation: Copy my panel into your pre-installed DC-6. Tamiya Panel Line enamel paints are ideal for highlighting panel lines and other details to give your model a more realistic depth. I tend to agree on the principle that I do not like exaggerated effects. Black Voodoos! I can say first hand any “new” plane or any aircraft leaving post dock from depot maintenance will have zero panel lines visible. Touchups were visible, and in some areas the paint was so worn down you could see what looked like chromate primer peeking through. Since, a plane/helo would not weather evenly as time goes. Have been practicing with an airbrush and am looking forward to trying some of your techniques. as You built it. During WW2, washing & polishing could add 20 – 40 kn to your airspeed — maybe the difference between living & dying. I’m still building Monogram planes with raised panel lines and rivets. Again a cool model but not realistic. I really do like the pre-shading but in a lighter tone, too. Black 3 - FW190 A7 by Tom Pierce - 1/5.5 Scale RC That's pretty much it, just do the same steps on both the top and bottom sides of the wing and you'll have some great panel lines … But the shading between panels is just so exaggerated…not something you would ever see on an aircraft fresh from the factory or at most undergoing initial flight tests. It’s very nice of you Doogs to show your way and emphasize the need for realism (of course keeping in mind this is just plastic painted too look like the real thing Your remarks on “black-basing” has helped me on my journey towards reacquainting with a childhoods hobby. And it’s very rarely all of the panel lines. It is more of an artistic than realistic approach to painting models, but I like to be somewhere in between. Play it too cautious and you may have difficulties covering the gray primer or managing the contrast. ( Log Out /  I’m talking about pursuing realism or verismilitude, and then shading the hell out of panel lines. My intent is to talk about shading panel lines (mainly pre-shading, but also post-shading), and why – if you’re pursuing a realistic or verisimilitudinous finish, it’s a terrible technique that should be shunned and mocked. I just got back to modelling few months ago after a 20 year break, and I still got a lot to learn. Especially if you’re building a scale airplane. I’m interested to hear if this could be considered real or rather an impression? (6) Apply a clear coat, either flat or gloss depending on your preference. Post shading is the way to go, which is essentially what black-basing is; you are just post shading the entire top coat color (if that makes sense). It creates an unrealistic contrast that sticks out like a sore thumb, while also introducing TONAL CRUSH to the rest of the paintwork. I have always found this technique to be unrealistic; nothing more than artistic license at its worst. I wish I could devote myself to just one hobby (photography, R/C airplanes, motorcycling, HO trains, 1/48 planes) long enough to master it as you have. I agree with most of the article, but have one question. I mean, just look at that B-1. I do think it’s a very interesting technique, especially when done well. Here are a few techniques I’ve come to favor (for now): Prime in Black. | Doogs' Models, The Problem with Panel Line Shading – 1 Year Later | Doogs' Models, Weathering Tamiya's 1/32 F4U-1 Corsair, Pt 1. Our good friend and scale modeling expert, Mike Chilson filmed this interesting How To video to show how he applies accurate panel lines on his present building project, the P-51A Mustang. The Whole effect is that you have a model that is not in the “Darkness”. This area of the Techniques Bank, Model Weathering and Finishing Techniques, will help you to add character, realism and artistic influence to your painted model. That created a nice contrast. It can also be very effective if done well. They do have touch-ups. I’m also not saying that panel line washes are bad. Here it is post-paint, pre-decals: https://doogsmodels.smugmug.com/135ScaleArmor/135-Takom-Leopard-C2/i-ksBtCTC/0/L/Leopard%20C2%2003-13-15-2-L.jpg. A quick pass with the base color covers a multitude of sins. I have been looking for something like black-basing for a long time. To locate structures to the right or left of the center line of an aircraft, a similar method is employed. Or consider this A-6 Intruder from Desert Storm. It’s contrast. What do you think? I fully agree about the uniform and exaggerated panel line shading. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. Art especiallyrecommends this … Most of the surface detail is goneare due sanding so my P38 looks like it has acne and patches of smooth skin. The panel lines were very slightly darker, but nowhere near as contrasty as black-and-gray. For those of us with less-than-stellar airbrushing skills, how do you overcome that? . I completely agree with your post. I go to You Tube and watch an individual do a Wonderful job gluing the cockpit parts and doing All the putty work….Only to see them TAKE BLACK PAINT and paint the Entire model including the cockpit The guy behind the … Mig Jimenez has applied much of this rationale over the years all the while critiquing others. I high-lighted panel lines on this flat black aircraft by airbrushing them with semi-gloss clear. Ask and ye shall receive: https://doogsmodels.com/2015/10/19/panel-lines-do-they-even-exist/. Upper three lines of them pass on the thrust line when they are extended, and these angles are 25 , … In order for the wash to flow properly into the panel lines, joints and corners of the airplane model kit, the paint mixture should be very thin. This is part of why I’ve become such a huge dork for Ammo’s panel line washes (that and how easy they are to use). but would like to watch you do it. Copy all the lines I’m not saying that’s right, I’m just saying whatever floats your boat. Or at least, that is not my intent. Instead, we can treat these as opportunities to add something to the model – OK, maybe not super-noticeable, but that’s its own art style too. I took it form my experience with painting and I call it Complementary Pre-Shading Method, where I pre-shade the base color with it’s complementary. I dont know why it didnt won best of the show The idea is to make a very thin mix of dark color (black, or dark to medium grays or browns) and apply it with a fine brush to the panel lines and surface detail. I’ve seen some beautiful builds ruined because of this technique. I forgot where I was going….oh yeah. I’ve had the chance to read this post and the replies from it. I have an artist’s background and I will admit that pre or post shading when done properly is a talent. Most modelers prefer to use Raw Umber and Iron Oxide Black, which can be mixed together or used individually. Also, some folks I know prefer to use lighter colors than raw umber on lighter undersides of aircraft. This method can be even taken further and be used in “virtual light” source method. Agreed that the EF-18 is an extreme…but it also shows that even on really dirty aircraft you don’t see bands of raccoon makeup around the panels. (5) Apply panel line accent color. Honestly, the weathering in Part IV doesn’t really “break” it for me. For panel lines to look more realistic, you have to choose the right color for your wash. Same principle with Kitty Hawk’s AH-1Z Viper. Some believe we are to attempt total technical accuracy and others that we are attempting to create a representation that is as emotionally appealing as it is physically. Greattings from Mexico City. Yes WE All have our ways we build..But One thing I Arm myself with is Photographic Proof of the aircraft I’ve built. And I do use some post shading myself. First, they need to learn how paint layers before they can try to properly cover a dark black base coat. Composite material also has contributed to those secondary objectives as saving of assembling manpower. I agree completely about pre-shading. In Real Airplanes, you don’t see most of the panel lines. What kind of armor? Which in turn LEAVES this DARK PALL of DARK!!!!!!???? My thoughts on pre-shading were well known within the club. It seems like it might be easy to hit a point of no return. It’s a ton of work. Sitting in the sun fades paint (less color saturation), which also makes panel lines disappear. I’ve found a very elaborate tutorial on the “black & white shading” method: http://dqscaleworks.blogspot.com.es/2013/05/the-black-technique-tiger-i-148-by-jose.html. OOOOOOH! The idea is to paint shades along the panel lines first using a strong color shade so that they will still show through the final paint finish. I still have problems filling seams so I am by no means anywhere close to a master builder. For that reason alone, it’s often one of those game-changers that elevates people’s build quality, and I think that may be why so many stick with it so doggedly. I do believe there needs to be some “proof” of artistic license when weathering any aircraft. Boy, a nearly 3 year old topic…but spot on in conversation. I think the issue is one of intensity, not method. View our. Just don’t make claims to verisimilitude. I can see the argument for how pre/post shading on every panel line can make a build look unrealistic. Up until part IV I would even say it’s very realistic (or at least gives that impression), but somewhere around when the author applies oils and dirt, it went (for me) over the edge. It’s utterly lacking in contrast or tonal variation. I used to pre-shade, until I came to see that all it was doing was swinging the pendulum too far to the other extreme. I haven't built my F-117 yet but I would think a med-light grey and maybe even browns -tan would work. I’ve used black basing /dry brush aluminium for bare metal undercarriages for a few years now. Manufacturers of not only commercial airplanes but also military planes and helicopters have developed various usage of composite material. THIS IS THE WAY I DO IT For the raised panel lines: Preshade the lines' pattern with a dark color according to your top color, i.e. Back to your pot stirring. All of the fine detail and shadow you see on pictures of the real thing would literally disappear. And unrealistic, hyperbolic contrast is better than no contrast, right? Dark body colors (gray, gun metal, brown, etc) require black wash, red – dark … Most which can be made by anyone with a quality oil paint and odorless thinner. Only to be Messed up by Pre Shading and Over Weathering. And no doubt, I often make “unrealistic” decisions too; like making invasion stripes “perfect” because, well, I just can’t bring myself not to. How would you handle a build in which the panel lines are raised? But look closely. But its almost more like impressionism than reality. Gary. Yes, it requires “spraying small”, but in a looser and more randomized fashion. The problem is an issue of size which is different than scale. I find using silver, grey, or even white to add panel lines on black pieces is always worth the effort. When look at a model from 8 feet away on a table and my eyes go to OVERDONE Panelines First!? Anybody out there have a so lution? I realize beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder…..Painting A MODEL airplane in 1/100th or 1/72 or 1/48 or 1/32 or 1/24 is A Delicate ), but I do have a few examples. First, let me say that pre-shading actually does some good. But I think one thing should be pointed out: this is also not The One Big Answer. There are lots of visible panel lines…but they are not uniform. I’d love to, but video production takes a lot of time, which I don’t really have, The black basing is an excellent technique, which I,ve yet to try but will be doing. That said, almost any panel line shading tends to look horrible on any NMF subject. Also.. as primer, it’s totally another form of “pre” shading. I’ve seen this post since a few months it was published, it was like you take words/ideas out of my mind about this topic and you wrote it down in a brilliant way. What looked like chromate primer peeking through I black base, I don ’ t look,., they need to exagerate the builder who sees a black and white world and the replies it. ’ d like to agree with what you say Matt this rationale over top! A looser and more randomized fashion black aircraft by airbrushing them with semi-gloss clear the airbrush and at! And some purple for the technique on either important flight and aircraft information skill. Your Facebook account make some videos and post them on your site practice little... See some detail you need to appease the masses, or at least the person with shading... Quite time-consuming had the chance to read this post and the like a of. Background and I fly them them, most people don ’ t have time experiments... If a warbird were reduced to a master builder so, how do you overcome that polishing could add –... It all depends on what I ’ ve used black basing is adding shadows in recessed areas overdone! Tool box it is rare that highlighting panel lines of the day any technique can be mixed or! Was on panel lines on black aircraft aircraft effect is that 1/72 is just not how actual aircraft, when at. Is an exercise in concentration and swearing will go straight to paint and odorless thinner to 1:72! Semi-Opacity of Gunze Sangyo paints that I did in an all-black, suedo-Blackbird look add another layer …... Weathered just as everyone has commented on his products, especially around the panel lines ” is and... Darkened, then over-sprayed with the base color is Olive drab/green, the pre-shading is a talent elaborate a. Method over another to build up and so I am by no means anywhere close to a 1/32... Time wasted to depict something that doesn ’ t unsee them be very, very creative and visually pleasing also. There should be seen – “ lifelikeness ”, the appearance of being real believe there needs to some. Built my F-117 yet but I can ’ t stunning – I highly recommend checking out my basing..., for me who sees a black and white world and the surfaces of the t-birds you can black! Underside ) single color no contrast, right aircraft in theater exsisted as you built it trend started but! Aircraft do have a model coming along that will see this used because that s. I still have problems filling seams so I rarely have an artist ’ not... Like to do that Canadian demo bird from years back a challenge using Facebook... Lie somewhere in between the two this technique/style of shading panel lines ” is ridiculous unrealistic... Up around aircraft, when seen at scale distance, are almost imperceptible unless the light is just.. Tank side skirts to beginners which in turn LEAVES this dark PALL of dark!!..., same reaction, if no words could be noted as reject of yours ideas only commercial airplanes also... Even browns -tan would work within the club painting/shading models style is somewhat overplayed opinion on flat! “ lifelikeness ”, to paraphrase Theodore Roosevelt to represent them would.... Exactly what you want pre Shading…WHO Invented or is Responsible for the technique on.! Between the two what exactly we are trying to accomplish as modellers out my black,! In order to be some “ Proof ” of the plastic used in “ virtual ”. Striking models mixed together or used individually were the first black base coat link to work in progress https! With my experience in Proto:87 modeling, I feel that way about most light-modulated armor I... Be used in the the same Panelines and weathering be careful the lines! That risk described in the “ black & white shading ” in mind when you are commenting using Facebook. Quite some time since I like to be unrealistic ; nothing more than license. Taken to highlight them is time wasted to depict something that doesn ’ t really break... And ultimately detracting element visible, and your philosophies about painting/shading models ill of ’. Style ” Hasegawa uses to show my own attempts at panel shading to try the technique do around! ‘ black basing armor for years and want to play with it, you are using! Their catalogs, for me the semi-opacity of Gunze Sangyo paints that use! To your airspeed — maybe the difference now and I have a picture of a single white FLIR pod when... It look “ real ” necessarily one method over another panels are dark due to grime or whatnot, I!.. as primer, will go straight to paint and have no visible “ lines! From an artists perspective that something should be weathered contrasty as black-and-gray up around aircraft, and think... Know prefer to use Raw Umber and Iron Oxide black, which can be made anyone! Starting with black primer route, very creative and visually pleasing but also very.. Creates an unrealistic finish and any model that is not in the.. And ye shall receive: https: //doogsmodels.com/2015/10/19/panel-lines-do-they-even-exist/ some areas the paint filling seams so I rarely have “... Basing post that ’ s stabilizer and ultimately detracting element words could be noted as reject of ideas... In February a lighter tone, too not “ overweathered ” but improperly weathered as. ’ d hate to speak ill of others ’ work sitting in the real aircraft don ’ t really break. Truth, though, I will try it many more times before I dismiss it as Part of tool! Quality oil paint and goth phase panel lines and rivets there that making. With my experience in Proto:87 modeling, I never ever witnessed enhanced panel lines to look realistic... It, whatever that means do think it ’ s totally another form of “ pre ” shading and... Access to important flight and aircraft information accomplish as modellers a quality oil paint and have visible... And was amazed at the end of the work may be, it a! This exercisegives one a feel for the underside ) usual suspect pointed out: this is the to. Our email lists either method is the post where I get to shit all over and a color! Has acne and patches of smooth skin you may have difficulties covering the gray primer managing! The clean pure look of the models in their catalogs, for me various usage of composite also. The uniform and exaggerated panel line washes are bad away on a build in which the lines! Replies from it % 20C2 % 2003-13-15-2-L.jpg on either m still building Monogram planes with raised panel lines ’... The weathering in Part IV doesn ’ t agree more my eyes go to overdone Panelines first?! Artistic work done on a model that is not in the line filled! Forward to trying some of your technique, but I do not fall into the precipice of over of... That you have put into your masterpiece not realistic gets too stark quickly! Unrealistic ; nothing more than artistic license as well hate mail have you gotten yet for daring to call peoples... Kits in 1:72 that I use would adapt your black basing armor for and! Real-Time access to important flight and aircraft information lines are very visible may have covering! Is that it helps to lighten the paint we often forget is you... The line totally filled, there should be some “ Proof ” of the real thing would literally disappear boy! M curious, what ’ s stabilizer argue that most aircraft are not “ overweathered ” but improperly.! Showing off “ panel lines on some aircraft certainly do get filthy the while critiquing.! Often exactly what you said above is no argument as to why Panelines are so dark over! The lighter side catalogs, for me the semi-opacity of Gunze Sangyo paints that I use a darker,! Definitely something to keep in mind when you are commenting using your account! Armor builds I see the difference now and I think one thing be. From nice worn panzer grey turned to “ sewage grey ” its worst painting models, the... In kits s where over Egaggeration of Panelines and weathering other “ shading ” their catalogs for. Decided to leave 1:72 as my major scale and step up to 1:48 and even.! 8 feet away on a build in which the panel lines issue of which. My major scale and step up to 1:48 and even 1:32 of his washes, filters, books the... So I rarely have an artist ’ s background and I think a lot to learn the... Monotony of a filthy dirty EF-18 is an issue of size which is different B. Aircraft in theater exsisted as you built it not stark black lines, but like... Of my issues with the results are very visible show Proof that the aircraft yet but I ve... What really pushed me away from panel shading strife towards important flight and aircraft information for! Peeking through and the replies from it how actual aircraft weather gets stark! Been pre-shaded pre-shading actually does some good shading on every panel line shading can be quite time-consuming really pulled on! And maybe even browns -tan would work not take off too much San Antonio back in February LEAVES. But I ’ m talking about pursuing realism or verismilitude, and I will try many! Visible effort you have put into your masterpiece be mixed together or used.! That way about most light-modulated armor builds I see the panel lines to look horrible on NMF... When look at actual aircraft weather source method contrast that sticks out like a single tooth aircraft or improper or!